British Bouldering Championships Results

Location: - an open sided circus tent in Millhouses Park in Sheffield.  The Junior event took place on Saturday 26th June when 52 boys and 30 girls aged 12 to 16 turned out to do their best on 10 different qualifying bouldering problems graded V2 to V6 for the girls and V3 to V8 for the boys.

There were 4 Scots down for the day.  Rachel Carr (14) and Andrew Barr (16) from Quickdraw with Fraser McIlwraith (14) and Alasdair Johnstone (16).

The tent held a long bouldering wall set with 20 problems so the spectators could see all the action at once from the comfort of their picnic blankets and fold up chairs.

The girls were out first and had the stage to themselves for an hour.  Queues quickly formed at the simpler routes but gradually competitors spread out to cover the wall.  Each competitor had 2 ½ hours to complete 10 problems with 3 attempts at each problem.  They had to decide in which order they should be done.  Get the hard ones out of the way while still fresh or leave to the end to ensure you topped the grades of which you thought you were capable?  Topping first attempt gained 10pts, 2nd attempt got 7pts and 3rd attempt 4pts.  There was a bonus hold on each problem which was used when competitors tied on points. 

Rachel started well and quickly dispatched 5 problems, and then an unfortunate foot slip on her 6th problem resulted in a second attempt and a 7 point score.  This was all it took to place her down in 11th place and out of the final.  She finished the day with 57 pts and 8 bonus holds. 

The boys came on stage at 10.30 and thankfully were wearing blue tops to the girls’ white because from the back it was sometimes difficult to tell.  Andrew, Alasdair and Fraser all showed determination and topped 3 problems first attempt and a fourth on the second attempt but the standard of competitors meant that 6 tops were required to reach the final. All boys finished the day on 37pts, but with 6 bonus holds Andrew and Fraser shared 31st place, while Alasdair’s 5 bonus holds put him in 33rd place. 

Biggest tragedy on the day was when top girl qualifier Kitty Wallace slipped on landing after finishing her 9th successful top and fractured her heel. She was one of two injuries during the day that required the services of the on-site paramedics.

The finals were run side by side which made great viewing.  Finalists were brought out one at a time and had 4 minutes to complete a problem.  Each attempt was counted and used to differentiate when scores were tied.  The final 4 problems were incredibly tough and 5 of the 8 girl finalist failed to reach any bonus holds despite the route setters resetting the last problem during the finals to make it easier. Charlotte Garden, being the only one to top a problem, took first place over Lily Rosengard (2 bonus holds) and Rhoslyn Frugtneit’s (1 bonus hold).

The boys’ final was much closer with 6 of the final 8 making it to the top of at least one problem.  The title was taken in remarkable style by Edd Mowbray who topped 3 problems in 3 attempts walking across a blank board on the final route while attached to a hold that resembled a 50p piece.  Barnaby Ventham, who was the top qualifier going into the final, also drew gasps of admiration from spectators for his strength and skill but took 4 attempts to get his 3 tops and Nathan Philips’ 5 put him in third place.   

Full results at http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/Results/bbc10results.pdf